The fish arrived per week in the past, to be kissed by an area TV reporter. By Saturday, the acclaimed native chef Tom Douglas was working in clouds of applewood smoke, grilling waves of fillets coated in a fennel-and-garlic rub as a part of a fund-raiser.
The salmon’s arrival has been an area phenomenon for many years, he mentioned. As the primary catch of the Alaska salmon season, it’s shipped instantly to high-end Pacific Northwest eating places and locations like Pike Place Market in downtown Seattle, the place it could actually fetch $75 per pound.
The brilliant fillets are fattier than many others, owing to the necessity for the fish to retailer up vitality forward of a very lengthy haul up the Copper River. Mr. Douglas mentioned the fish had been elevated as half of a bigger effort to spotlight the advantages of wild-caught fish as an alternative of farmed alternate options.
As he completed cooking up 200 parts over the weekend, Mr. Douglas observed a scrap remaining on the grill and popped it into his mouth. “There’s no purpose on the planet why this fish shouldn’t value as a lot, or extra, than a filet mignon,” the chef mentioned. “It’s good.”
— Mike Baker
A magical ice cream oasis
It doesn’t appear like a lot. That’s how you recognize it’s good.
On the nook of East Carson Road and Becks Run Highway in Pittsburgh, within the shadow of a concrete underpass, sits an unassuming sq. constructing that, for half of the yr, resembles a boarded-up shack. The opposite half of the yr, it transforms right into a magical ice cream oasis. At Web page Dairy Mart, a Pittsburgh staple that just lately celebrated its seventieth season, delicate serve is the delicacy of selection. However like different mom-and-pop outlets in former industrial cities all through the Nice Lakes, what makes Web page’s ice cream really, quintessentially summer season is that you’ve got earned it — by way of each perseverance and a little bit of boredom.
There are all kinds of scrumptious ice lotions on the market. Texas has Blue Bell, served in grocery shops yr spherical. In New York Metropolis, you may get a cone that’s each mouthwatering and hip from, say, Massive Homosexual Ice Cream, one among many meals and leisure choices at your fingertips within the metropolis that by no means sleeps.
However nothing fairly spells summer season like making it by way of an icy, grey winter in Pittsburgh and seeing the neon lights activate at Web page’s: You’ve made it. A cease at Web page’s isn’t one thing to be hurried, or tacked onto a busy social calendar. It’s the major occasion. The times are getting longer and the nights are getting hotter and you don’t have anything else to do, so that you go. You order a twist cone with sprinkles, and it melts quicker than you possibly can lick it, and also you go residence and watch the Pirates lose on TV, and shortly, the lightning bugs will likely be blinking within the evening sky. Summer time has arrived.
— Sarah Mervosh